Tuesday
10.06.2014:
We left
Taiohae Bay early this morning and tacked our way east, passed the Controleurs
Bay and rounded the east side of Nuku-Hiva and continued the fast sail up to the
NE tip of the Island before turning west and finally arrived in the Baie de
Anaho, located on the north side of Nuku-Hiva. The bay is supposed to be one of the best protected bays in the area, at least for the swell, but as it is blowing 22-28 kn, the
wind in the anchorage comes straight at us. We set the anchor riding sail, to
steady us and to swing less. The weather forecast is for very strong wing at
least including the week-end, so I wonder if we will have to stay put for a
while.
Again we were
met by Rays and Jon went snorkelling on the reef and was met by a Black tip
Shark and loads of fish in many
colours.
Thursday
12.06.2014:
We
had two days in the nice Anaho Bay, but it was blowing hard and the anchorage is
only sheltered from the swell, but not the wind. We met a Belgian boat , whom we
had met several times before. They dragged their anchor and had to reset it as
they were getting too close to the
reef.
The people we
met at Anaho were all very friendly, but the place is sleepy. I guess that
only about 20 people live there. Chris and Jon walked over the the next village,
which is a tough walk and when I was a third of the way up the hill, I turned
around and instead walked along the beach and up to the entrance to the big
windy bay we had passed when we sailed along Nuku-Hiva’s east coast.
I met an
elderly chap and had an informative chat with him. We talked about their
economy, which is based on selling Cobra. He told me that the price was 140
Fr/kg (EUR 1.20) and that was fair and enough for them to live on. He also told me that
life in the village was nice and calm and that he was happy living there.
I
asked him about the fish poisoning “Ciguatera” and told him about Jon’s symptoms
the last days, after he had eat for four days fish. It was clear to him that Jon
had indeed caught Ciguatera, as all the symptoms he has pointed in that
direction. The only remedy is not to eat anything that comes from the sea and
that for three months. Jon was not happy with that news, as he is a big fish
eater.
This morning
we finally left the Anaho Bay and sailed westwards and as the wind was strong
(Gale 8 BF/38 kn) we had a fast passage along the north coast, but encountered the usual
problematic sail along the lee side (West) of the island, with winds coming from all directions and no wind, so Volvo had a job for about 40 min. Once we got to the
south west side we received the full blow of the strong Trade Wind and had to
tack for some hours to get into the small Anse Hakatea (also called Daniel’s
Bay, as Daniel lived here with his wife for 60 years and was considered a
friendly and helpful
chap).
The Bay is
affected by the swell but less so by the wind. Chris and Jon plan to do the 5 h
hike to the third largest water fall in the world tomorrow. I have some boat
work to do as usual, and a five hours hike is not for
me.
Entering the Baie de Anaho.
A suitable position on a Coconut beach?
Coconut Allee.
Baie de Anaho.
We sailed back to Baie De Taiohae 13 June, as the weather is poor and too strong wind to sail the 550 nm to Tuamotu; I am checking the weather forecasts at the moment and also the Tide tables, for the Atolls we plan to visit and it looks that early next week should be better to leave. The Tuamotu are highly dangerous sailing area and the Atolls are hardly noticed, except for close to them and on the radar. Night sailing is not advisable. So it is with Butterflies in the stomach when we get close to them and especially the problematic entrance/exits for the passes, which can only be done about 30 min after low water twice a day.
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